How to Repair a Cracked Golf Cart Body: Materials, Steps & Pro Tips

Cracked cart panels are fixable—identify the plastic, stop-drill, V-groove, bond or weld, then sand, prime, and refinish for a lasting repair.

Body cracks on a golf cart may look terminal, but most can be repaired cleanly with the right products and a careful workflow. The key is matching the repair method to the panel material (ABS, TPO/PP, or fiberglass), preparing the surfaces properly, and reinforcing the crack so it won’t creep. Below you’ll find the materials to gather and a step-by-step process to restore structure and appearance—without recurring splits.

What materials are needed to repair a cracked golf cart?

• Cleaning & safety: Degreaser, isopropyl alcohol (IPA), lint-free wipes; nitrile gloves, safety glasses, dust mask/respirator.
• Abrasives: Sandpaper 80/120/180/320/600 grit; scuff pads; body file (optional).
• Crack control: 1/8" drill bit for stop holes; rotary tool or V-groove burr to open the crack.
• Reinforcement options (choose for your substrate):
  • ABS/rigid plastics: Two-part plastic repair epoxy or panel bonding adhesive; fiberglass mesh (optional).
  • TPO/PP/TPE flexible plastics: Plastic welding kit with compatible rods or flexible two-part repair adhesive plus adhesion promoter for TPO/PP.
  • Fiberglass: Polyester or epoxy resin with fiberglass cloth/mat; mixing cups, rollers/squeegee.
• Shaping & finishing: Lightweight body filler (flexible type for plastics), glazing putty, plastic adhesion promoter, primer (epoxy or 2K build), basecoat/clear or single-stage paint, tack cloths.
• Clamping & backing: Spring clamps, painter’s tape, aluminum or plastic backer strip, wax paper (release layer).
• Tools: Drill/driver, Dremel/rotary tool, heat gun (for welding/forming), spreaders, mixing sticks.

What steps are involved in repairing a cracked golf cart?

1) Identify the panel material

Look for ID marks on the backside: ABS, PP/TPO, or FRP (fiberglass). Pick the repair chemistry to match. ABS bonds well with epoxies; PP/TPO often needs welding or a plastic-specific adhesive with adhesion promoter; fiberglass uses resin and cloth.

2) Remove, clean, and stabilize

• Remove the panel if practical; otherwise, create space to work from both sides.
• Wash with soap/degreaser, rinse, then wipe twice with IPA. Contaminants cause adhesion failure.
• Stop-drill each end of the crack with a 1/8" bit to prevent further propagation.

3) V-groove the crack

Use a rotary burr to open a shallow V along the crack on the face side—just deep enough to expose fresh material without thinning the panel excessively. Lightly scuff the back side 2–3" around the crack for adhesion.

4) Align and back the crack

Tape the face side closed to maintain alignment. On the back side, apply a release layer (wax paper) to a temporary backing strip and clamp it against the crack for support while bonding/welding.

5) Bond or weld (by substrate)

• ABS / rigid plastic: Mix a two-part plastic repair epoxy. Wet out the V-groove from the face, then reinforce the back side with a layer of epoxy and fiberglass mesh spanning at least 1" past the crack. Let cure fully.
• TPO/PP / flexible: Wipe with adhesion promoter (per label). Plastic-weld along the back side first using matching rods, then fill the face V-groove with additional weld bead or flexible repair adhesive. Keep heat moving to avoid warping.
• Fiberglass (FRP): On the back side, lay 2–3 plies of cloth/mat with resin, rolling out air. After cure, fill the face V-groove with resin-thickened filler and fair smooth.

6) Shape, fill, and block

• Rough-sand the face repair 80→120 grit to profile. Apply a thin layer of flexible body filler to level low areas.
• Block-sand 180→320 until transitions are flush and the repair is invisible to the touch.

7) Prime and refinish

• For plastics, apply plastic adhesion promoter to exposed areas first.
• Spray epoxy or 2K high-build primer; block 400–600 for smoothness.
• Finish with base/clear or single-stage. Use a flex additive when coating flexible plastics to resist edge cracking.

8) Reinstall and inspect

Reattach hardware with correct torque and fresh clips as needed. Verify panel gaps, fastener security, and that no wiring or edges are rubbing.

Pro tips for a stronger, longer-lasting repair

• Feather wide: A broader taper (2–3" each side) spreads stress and hides the seam.
• Mind temperature: Work between 65–80°F (18–27°C); cold slows cure, heat can warp panels.
• Use flexible products on flexible panels: Adhesives, fillers, and clears should specify plastic compatibility.
• Don’t skip stop holes: They’re the difference between a stable repair and a crack that creeps back.
• Avoid over-grinding: Thinning plastic near the crack concentrates stress—remove only what you need.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Gluing over dirt or silicone: Contamination causes peel and fish-eyes; clean twice.
• No backside reinforcement: Face-only fills often re-crack under vibration.
• Hard fillers on flexible panels: Mismatch leads to edge checking and visible seams.
• Skipping adhesion promoter on TPO/PP: These plastics are notoriously low-energy—promoter is essential.

When to repair vs. replace

Hairline or medium cracks and broken tabs are great candidates for repair. Replace panels that are severely shattered, missing large sections, or warped. If the cart is frequently used on rough paths, reinforcing the back side with mesh or cloth is worth the extra time.

Bottom line

A durable crack repair follows a simple formula: identify the substrate, stop-drill and V-groove, bond or weld with the right chemistry, reinforce the back side, then finish with proper primer and paint. Take your time with cleanliness and sanding, and the repair will disappear to the eye—and, more importantly, stand up to vibration and daily use.