The Best Type of Paint to Use on a Golf Cart (Plus Prep & Pro Tips)

For durable results, choose automotive-grade urethane; for budgets, plastic-safe acrylic sprays. Longevity hinges on meticulous prep—cleaning, sanding, and adhesion promoter.

Refreshing the body panels on golf carts is a high-impact upgrade—if you pair the right paint with the right prep. Many cart bodies are molded from TPO/PP/ABS plastics that resist ordinary coatings. That’s why the “best” paint is less about a brand name and more about a system: proper cleaning, plastic adhesion promotion, compatible primers, and a durable topcoat formula. Below you’ll find the top paint choices and a step-by-step process to help your finish stay glossy, chip-resistant, and UV-stable through seasons of sun and washings.

What paint is best for golf carts?

• Automotive 2K urethane basecoat/clearcoat (best overall) — A catalyzed system that cures hard, resists chemicals and UV, and sprays beautifully through an HVLP gun. Use a flexible additive for plastic parts and a UV-stable clear. Ideal for color depth, metallics/pearls, and long-term durability.
• Automotive single-stage urethane (durable, simpler) — Color and gloss in one product reduces steps and booth time. Still catalyzed, still tough, and great for solid colors. Add a flex additive on plastic panels.
• Acrylic enamel (good value) — Easier spraying and decent gloss; not as chemical/UV resistant as 2K urethanes but fine for lighter-duty carts with proper clear and maintenance.
• Plastic-specific acrylic spray paint (budget DIY) — Choose cans labeled for plastic with built-in adhesion chemistry. Pairs well with a separate plastic adhesion promoter. Durability improves markedly if you finish with a compatible clear.

Bottom line: For maximum longevity and a pro look, go 2K automotive urethane with a compatible primer and clear. For quick cosmetic refreshes on a budget, plastic-safe acrylic sprays can work—provided the prep is meticulous.

Essential steps for any paint job

1. Deep clean & de-wax — Wash with a degreasing soap, then wipe twice with a dedicated wax/grease remover. Silicone or wax residue will cause fish-eyes and adhesion failure.
2. Scuff & sand — Scuff plastics with a gray scuff pad; sand broader areas 400–600 grit (pre-primer) to create uniform tooth. Feather any chips or scratches smoothly.
3. Plastic adhesion promoter — Apply a light, even coat on bare plastic (TPO/PP/ABS). This is the make-or-break step for long-term adhesion.
4. Primer selection — Use epoxy primer to seal and grip, or a 2K high-build primer to block minor imperfections. Let cure, then block-sand 600–800 grit until flat.
5. Tack & cleanliness — Blow off panels, then tack rag immediately before paint. Keep dust, lint, and bugs away; a simple pop-up spray shelter helps.
6. Topcoat system — Apply your chosen system within recoat windows:
   • Base/clear: 2–3 medium coats of base; flash; then 2–3 coats of clear with proper gun distance and overlap.
   • Single-stage: 2–3 medium-wet coats to full coverage and gloss.
   • Rattle-can acrylic: Multiple light coats, allowing label-specified flash; finish with a compatible clear for UV protection.
7. Cure & handle — Respect cure times. Avoid washing or waxing for 30 days on fresh urethane; gentle soap only if needed.

Choosing a system: quick comparison

Application tips for a pro-looking finish

• Temperature & humidity: Spray around 65–80°F (18–27°C) with low humidity; adjust reducer/hardener per the tech sheet.
• Gun setup (HVLP): 1.3–1.4 mm for base/clear; 50–70% overlap; steady gun speed. Test on a card before panels.
• Flex additive: Add to urethane systems when coating flexible plastics to reduce cracking and edge chipping.
• Masking discipline: Use automotive tape and clean paper; soft-edge techniques reduce hard paint lines on curves.
• Dust control: Lightly mist the floor around your spray area with water to trap dust; avoid fans that kick up debris.

Color matching & repairs

If you have an OEM color code, your job is easier. Otherwise, bring a removable panel (cowl trim, access cover) to an automotive paint supplier for spectro matching. For chips and scuffs later, wet-sand 1500–2000 grit, compound, then polish. Small scrapes can be spot-repaired with blended base and a localized clear recoat, then polished after curing.

Safety & prep checklist

• Respiratory protection (P100 or supplied-air for isocyanate 2K systems), gloves, and eye protection.
• Ground and cover the work area; remove or mask seat cushions, lights, and trim.
• Practice on a scrap panel to dial in fan pattern, pressure, and distance before the cart.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Skipping adhesion promoter on plastic: Leads to easy peeling within weeks.
• Heavy first coats: Causes sags and solvent entrapment; build coverage with controlled passes.
• Contaminated surface: Armor-All/silicones cause fish-eyes—double de-wax before you ever sand.
• Ignoring recoat windows: Recoating too late can cause lifting or poor intercoat adhesion.

Bottom line

For a finish that lasts, pick an automotive-grade urethane system with proper primer and clear; add a flex additive for plastic panels. If you’re refreshing on a budget, plastic-safe acrylic spray can work—just be meticulous with cleaning, sanding, and adhesion promotion, and protect it with a compatible clear. In every case, prep is king: a carefully prepared surface will make even modest materials look great and stay that way through countless washes and sunny rounds.